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NORWAY: BERGEN

The history of Bergen (Bryggen) goes back to the year 1070, shortly after the  Viking Age (discussed in previous posts).  The town, easily accessible by ships from the far north, Iceland as well as mainland Europe  is also located at a strategically defendable position:

Bergen became an influential trade center and in the 1300’s the Hanseatic League, which was a powerful medieval commercial and defensive network of merchant guilds and market towns from Central and Northern Europe, set up offices in Bergen  and claimed the entire wharf area.   It’s name derived from the medieval German word “Hanse”  meaning guild or association.  At its zenith  there were over 2000 Hanseatic tradesmen living and working there, exporting tons of dried, salted fish, cod liver oil (ugh I had to have a tablespoon of cod liver oil every morning as a child) as well as importing grains, salt and luxury items such as furs, spices, amber and fine textiles like silks and wool, They remained in power until 1754  when Norwegians took back control.

Bergen’s architectural structures were built with wood and tar, and most used open fires for heat and cooking,  using  three sources:

  • Central hearths:  The smoke from these fires exited through a hole in the roof, but this smoke hole was pretty inefficient in  removing the smoke.
  • Wall fireplaces:   In wealthier homes  wall-mounted fireplaces and chimneys were more common and allowed  compartmentalizing buildings into individual rooms.
  • Inglenooks:  Walk-in fireplaces whose walls of stone or brick would retain heat and had recessed areas where people could sit

As one would expect, Bergen was vulnerable to fire – some devastating.  Some of the worst fires date back to 1198, 1248, 1476 and 1702.  The people, being quite resilient (or stubborn) rebuilt each time using the same  town plan and property boundaries, using building remains as foundations.  We actually visited a site where there are archaeological remains below the current building:

Bergen’s wharf area  today consists of 62 buildings, the majority wooden, knotted timber structures covered with panelling, and with external staircases and galleries opening out on  narrow  passages.

In the inner part of the settlement, stone buildings were used as “safes” to protect the more valuable goods from the many fires.  There are still safes today:

 

Today Bergen stands proudly and most colorfully- let me conclude with some of its beauty and charm:

 

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