LAKE ORTA/ SAN GIULIO

Once again we are hiking up narrow cobblestone streets, up through mountain villages to our next destination.  To refresh your memory the Northern Lakes region of Italy covers the areas of Lombard, Piedmont, Trentino and Veneto, nestled beneath the southern foothills of the Alps near the border of Switzerland (for a deeper refresher course – reread the first blog of this series). We have ventured all around the “running man” lake area of Bellagio and Como, trekked west to  Lake Maggiore  and across the border to Switzerland and Lake Lugano and now have continued our westerly path to another sliver lake, Lake Orta  – see F-H, 1-2 on the bigger map below:

Lake Orta is actually separated from Lake Maggiore by the  Mottarone peak (Monte Mottarone is 4,892 ft high) and is the smallest of the lakes we have visited. It is not its diminutive size that makes it so captivating, however, but rather the medieval cast and palpable spiritual aura that hits us as soon as we reach our hotel, the Hotel San Rocco – which happens to be a former 17th century convent.

Not only is the hotel lovely – it directly overlooks Isola di San Giulio, a picturesque island of tranquility (see pic at top of post and below) and one of our next stops, and one of the few that require motorized transportation in the guise of a motor launch that departs from a quaint jetty:

Upon our early morning arrival on the island we are immediately aware of a hushed ambiance – no doubt created by the Romanesque Basilica di Giulio that is directly in front of us. Going inside this feeling persists as we are told the history of the area. The Basilica was built on the remains of an earlier 9th century construction. The frescoes covering the walls were painted between the 14th and the 19th centuries, and are almost all images of saints. The sacristy houses a large fossilized vertebra hung from the centre of the vault, which according to legend belonged to one of the terrible dragons which, along with assorted serpents supposedly inhabited  the island before being driven out by San Giulio. A crypt below the high altar has a glass casket of  the remains of San Giulio. The most valuable work of art in the Basilica is this medieval pulpit made of black marble:

Now just because we are on a small island doesn’t mean we get a break from hiking up hills as we next trek up to visit the 1000 year-old monastery. The nuns here are sequestered in the convent.  We have access to a series of paths between the high walls of the monastery created to encourage pilgrims to seek enlightenment.  There are two ways to go:  The Way of Meditation and The Way of Silence:

We chose the Way of Silence and at intervals we see signs set to help us navigate our thoughts:

It is not hard to keep silent – as the spiritual beauty surrounding us all but commands quiet contemplation:

And yes,  steep stone steps make their presence known constantly – and again seemingly always uphill:

Ah, but our day is just beginning – we return to the motor coach for our return trip to the mainland  – and even this short excursion offered more excellent views to encourage our contemplative thoughts:

 

NAMASTE

#